Pete Jenkins, at the office, on my Pashley Muni
(MP4 video, 1.1Mb)

Well I got my 26-inch Pashley Muni a couple of weeks ago, and it’s about time to review what i’ve learned.

Unicycling is phenomenal fun – amongst my colleagues at work I believe that I’ve managed to make two instant converts and I am progressing smoothly, but PJ (MP4 video, above) managed to go from “dubious” to “this is fun and I want one and can almost go around the block so long as I stick close to a wall” in less than an hour.

Interesting observations:

1. the two FAQs you want to read if starting out are [www.unicycling.org] and [www.juggling.org] ; in the end you’ll have to find your own way, and it’s becoming evident to me already that everyone learns in their own way and at their own pace.

2. The two most critical adjustments you’ll make to the unicycle are (a) seat height, and (b) tyre pressure. They are both amazingly critical to the comfort, balance and maneuverability of the cycle, and a mere half-inch of seat mis-adjustment can – for me as a learner – make riding far less easy.

3. Tyre pressure? Really quite hard, and then some. Squidgeyness = wobbliness = lack of control for a learner.

4. I suspect that the third critical adjustment is the tyre itself, and its tread; I’m currently riding the stock Muni mountainbike tyre, but have been recommended the Maxxis Hookworm by the lads at [www.unicycle.uk.com] if/when I change it.

5. I have a 34″ inseam and do well with the 26″ wheel; colleagues with a shorter leg would probably benefit from the 20″ especially when mounting.

6. The proper seat-height is when (a) your bum is fully on the seat with all of our weight upon it, (b) if your ankle stands upon the pedal, your leg is straight at maximum extent, and (c) when the ball of your foot is on the pedal, your leg is slightly bent. You ride in the latter configuration.

7. The technique of riding is much like orbital mechanics. The aim of riding the unicycle is not to move you, but instead purely to keep the wheel approximately under you and your centre of gravity. The aim is to stay balanced, not unlike that trick where you balance a broom by standing it up handle-end-first in the palm of your hand.

8. When you want to move forwards you can just lean forwards and let gravity take you. Then you start pedaling so that the principal of leverage keeps you propped up in the air. To achieve this requires you to be really really sitting on the seat, with your feet only resting lightly upon the pedals.

9. You don’t fall off it a fraction as much as you expect you will. You step off it, yes, but so far I’ve only landed arse-on-floor the once.

10. There are 10 Skill Levels to unicycling; level 1 is:
    • Mount Unicycle unassisted
    • Ride 50 meters
    • Dismount gracefully with unicycle in front

    …and level 10 is:

    • Demonstrate 10 types of mounts
    • Ride backward with seat out in back in a figure 8
    • Ride backward one footed in a figure 8
    • Walk the wheel[1] one footed with left foot in circle
    • Walk the wheel one footed with right foot in circle
    • Walk the wheel backward in a circle
    • 180 uni spin
    • Sideways wheel walk for 10m
    • Coast for 10m
    • Side ride for 10m
    • Walk the wheel one footed backward for 10m

    …and frankly I’d be happy to do Level 1 before Xmas, and Level 2 by Easter.

11. One of the best things? It fits in my car’s boot. It goes anywhere. I’ve used a dab of hot-melt glue on the reflectors to ensure that they don’t fall off, but aside from that the Muni’s proven bombproof.

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[1] Move the wheel without the pedals, using soles of your shoes; for an example of this see [gallery.unicyclist.com] – about halfway thought.